A Day in Hong Kong



10/12/03

Right,

Pretty smashed and extremely tired, but gotta get this day down, before I crash.

Sitting in my little room at ‘rent- a-room’ in Jordan, Just off Nathan Rd, Kowloon, Hong Kong.

This morning, grogged out of bed at about 8:00am or so (local time), shower (hot – had left stupid hot water heater on overnight) but day is already verging on muggy. Nice. Then, still half beddy, down onto street to sort money issues.

First thing – go to try and find 24 hr internet joint spotted the night before, roaming the streets of Jordan with Elaine in the balmy night - munching Chau Tsu on the stairs watching the flow of the night evolve in front of us. After stupid directions from the guy sitting in the foyer of the place supposed to have this internet joint, eventually gave up, bought a paper and headed back towards base. Breakfast at ‘Everyday food’ just up the road from the hotel, total low key local joint, had to screw up the nerve to go in with no language at all, but after examining it all, saw the a picture of what looked like the thing Elaine had been talking about Konji. Went in, big smiles and welcoming gestures from proprietors, checked out menu, couldn’t see Konji so, convinced through hand gestures proprietor to come outside and pointed at sign of Conji – ah yes, no problem. 2 minutes later Konji and weird ‘milk-tea’ on the table. Good breakfast accompanied by news from the South China Times.

Then back to hotel, internet PC in hotel lobby/lounge room of owners. Quickly found National bank and transferred one large from credit into savings. Back out to HSBC round the corner and withdrew $1500 HKD. Sweet. Back to Hotel, paid next nights rent.

Now, off into the day. Down to MTR station. Pick a station at random, well, decide to go for an early alphabet and put my finger on ‘Admiral’. Station navigation is self explanatory and train arrives within seconds, two stops to Admiral, at first disappointed, despite interesting colonial sounding places, station seems stuck in real corporate and freeway kind of no mans land. Decide to make for the harbour and after some tricky street and over fly navigation, find the water. Start to recognise landmarks from last time here. There’s that building – I’ve got a photo of that!

Far side of harbour shrouded in haze. Still only about 10:30 but air is comfortable and I’m feeling good. End up taking off the Nomad and just digging the city ambience.

Spot the convention center and make towards that. Eventually find my way there and walk through what I had access to of the hallways of the structure. Find a really interesting photo display of the ‘handover’ and wonder at the significance and magic this event must have been.

Beautiful gold flower outside – represented also on the Hong Kong special administrative Zone flag.

Then after consulting a few bus crew, and finding one with some English, am told the nearest MTR station is just over there, over that walkway. Start walking and suddenly recognise the hotel with the club that Ju Ju played at last time I was here... the Harbourview Renaissance. Chuckle and head over now familiar walkway into Wanchai. Great! Funky shopping time. Start exploring the crowded and vibrant streets and soon stumble across a little place selling DVD’s and VCD’s. Start exploring and quickly start making a pile. Find amongst more obvious titles, some nice obscure stuff such as ‘the Warriors’ and ‘Rollerball’. And most for 18 –25 HKD, that’s 4-5 Bucks!!!! Having made my pile, front up to buy but at the last minute think to ask; ‘these are DVD’s right’ and am told, ‘no their VCD’s’. Undecided now, ring Elaine who reckons they should play on most DVD players, so hesitantly take the plunge and buy a stack. Including ‘the Planets’ a BBC spacey series which I have coveted for ages - boxed set of 4 DVD’s for $290 HKD. What the hell.

Now wander around some more, but am already getting tired. So, at about 12:30 or so, head back to the MTR station, easily found, and back to Hotel. Sleep for 40 minutes, annoyed a little by drilling, then Elaine rings and she is here to start her mission of showing me a good time around town.

Firstly, to the Wong Tai Sin temple. We buy the prescribed Joss sticks and packets of elaborate red paper sacrificial gak, then step up to the entrance area. After joking about it, the aura of the place quickly seeps in and I am solemn and calm. Light the votives and offer my small gesture of respect to the ineffable amongst the crowds of locals doing the same. Nice. Go up to the main area and marvel at the seriousness, and yet integrated nature of the worship here. A man barrels up with a gait like to get things done. Four business men clutch masses of Joss sticks as they head up the hill, perhaps the beginning of a business venture? Little old ladies with mountains of fruit, cast I-Ching sticks and funky young girls offer their bits and then giggle at each other and take photos.

Lovely and calming. On the way out, duck into a little side stall to buy some trinkets for the gang back home and find some wonderful little pieces. Lovely old lady explains some of the blessings on one of the toys to Elaine to translate further to me. The real deal.

Then back to the MTR and into Mong Kok for shopping and DVD hunting. Upon arrival in this super crowded junk shopping mecca immediately delve into a DVD store and find a bunch of good stuff. Buy them, then further up the road, find some more gems, buy a few there. Then wander around the markets and stalls, thinking by now, hmmmm hungry. At my request we find a totally gungy little roadside place and the owner shows us his offerings in layer after layer of steel steamer. Hankering for Seafood and on the advice of Elaine pick some Salty fish in braised pork and steamed fish with ginger done in little plates. Not a scrumptious thing, but interesting and totally authentic. When that mean salty fish – boy do they mean it.

Then on to more shopping, eventually find ourselves in a mall I recognise as having been in with the Ju Ju gang last time we were here. Wacky. Wander round checking out porn DVD’s and buy myself a strap for putting around my now seriously aging suitcase.

Then back out onto the street and into market town, looking at clothes, sunglasses and toys. Buy some neat embossed metallic Mugen and the like stickers – great for my next rocket car!

Buy some ‘Double Happiness’ cigarettes. Also good. Could evolve a taste for these...

By now it’s almost 6:00 and as dusk falls exhaustedly launch ourselves at one more section of markets, this time featuring fortune tellers of various persuasion, by the row.

Elaine shouts me a session with one of these 'street sages', and after a strange and unsatisfying experience with a woman who’s divination system consists of birds hopping out a cage and picking at cards containing typed up predictions, settle on a little old guy who does palm and face readings.

"It is always better for me to work alone. I would find success in Engineering or constructions but should stay away from steel of any sort in my career. I will be very good to my wife, but should marry a woman at least 10 pounds heavier than I or we’ll fight, 42-62 will be my best money years", and then, with Elaine translating "I lack social skills".

Right. Thanks.

Funny.

Not convinced a real connection is made.

Then, with aching feet and tired at heel, catch a quick cab back to hotel for an hour of ZZZZ’s as well as a pleasant kanoodle. Yum. Then an hour sleep or so, before groggily dragging ourselves out of bed to attack the night.

After some sartorial conundrums, eventually MTR into Center, to find the club-life. At this point, I’m still exhausted and worried about spending too much money. Immediately find the prefect night starter. A lovely cozy little bar right down the end of one of the streets off the clubbing domain of central, Lan Kwai Song, where, after the first delicious scotch, we quickly befriend the bar-tender and he shouts us some specialty shots of his – First off a Vodka and Butterscotch Schnapps shooter and then later a round of Peach Kamikazes. Nice. Feel just about right now and ready to launch into the night. Wander down the main drag, and following the tug off some bass, swerve into a club. Pleased to find lots of people, pumping little dance floor to passable (tho the spirits have helped by this point) RnB and we quickly 'get down' to DJ.

After about three or four tracks (including 50 Cent’s ‘In Da Club’) the band comes on and despite the Asian Ricky Martin front guy and super polished sound, it’s all a bit sickly and sweet and we head off. Hunt around for more signs of life, but not much is kicking this Tuesday night so we eventually decide to eat, and head into another little local diner place for some Pigs Entrails, Squid ball soup and Spiced Prawns. Then Elaine puts me on a shuttle bus back to Kowloon and jumps in a cab herself to return to her parents place.

Now it’s 3:46 and I’m about to collapse for exhaustion after a wonderful rich and engaging day.

Hong Kong. What a place. What a time.

D.